Martha Stewart\’s Homekeeping Handbook: The Essential Guide to Caring for Everything in Your Home - Martha Stewart’s new home reference book is a must-have for many reasons, not the least of which is the fact that it’s gorgeous. Printed on thick, glossy pages covered with subtle sepia photos and that perfect Martha-blue as an accent color, Martha Stewart’s Homekeeping Handbook is a pretty and practical package for everyone: “all mothers and daughters, fathers and sons who have a room, an apartment, or a home to care for.” Stewart’s exhaustive handbook features a handy “how to use this book” introduction; a room by room guide with weekly, monthly, and seasonal checklists; tips for cleaning, creating a comfortable and safe home, and moving; and a guide for identifying and caring for materials in your home. Curious? Take a look at some excerpts below. You’ll be sweeping and shelving your way to a happier home in no time.

When the first issue of Martha Stewart Living was published in 1990, I could not have begun to anticipate how wide-ranging our readers’ homekeeping concerns would be. Since then, we have discovered new solutions to age-old problems, brought in experts to advise us on very specific questions about very specific?c concerns, and experimented with all the new (and not so new) home-care products. Over the years, I’ve brought these lessons home with me, too, which has made me more organized and made my homes better cared for and maintained.

Households are busy places, works in progress where there is always something needing immediate attention and always something more that can be done. With that in mind, I have organized this book to address the tasks at hand and also to address the “more that can be done” for when you have the time and the inclination go beyond the essentials.

It starts with the big picture–an examination of every room and everything you will find within each. The eleven chapters in the “Room by Room” section take you on a tour through the house, focusing on the surfaces and furnishings you might find in any room, and offering strategies for their care and maintenance. Starting with the kitchen, the central staging area in any home, these chapters open with practical space-planning advice, followed by the golden rules of organizing. This information is intended to help contain your belongings and make each room clutter-free and functional. Relevant homekeeping concerns particular to each room are explored in depth–so stain-removal basics appear in “Laundry Room,” the best way to clean grout in “Bathroom,” and easy sewing repairs in “Utility Spaces.” The equipment essential to each room is also addressed, so if you are considering what kind of bathtub to install during a bathroom renovation or whether a gas or electric range would best suit your style of cooking, you will have the information necessary to make such an investment with confidence.

Whether your home is small or large, an apartment in the city or a country cottage, it is a space that should be at once beautiful and livable. The key to that is managing the upkeep without feeling flustered. Until now, there has never been a comprehensive resource that not only tells how to care for your home and everything in it, but that also simplifies the process by explaining just when. With secrets from Martha Stewart for accomplishing the most challenging homekeeping tasks with ease, this detailed and comprehensive book is the only one you will need to help you keep your home looking its best, floor to ceiling, room by room.

In Martha Stewart’s Homekeeping Handbook, Martha shares her unparalleled expertise in home maintenance and care. Readable and practical–and graced with charts, sidebars, illustrated techniques, and personal anecdotes from Martha’s decades of experience caring for her homes–this is far more than just a compendium of ways to keep your house clean. It covers everything from properly executing a living room floor plan to setting a formal table; from choosing HEPA filters to sealing soapstone countertops; from organizing your home office to polishing your silver and caring for family heirlooms.

Martha Stewart’s Homekeeping Handbook is organized for clarity and maximum practicality:

Room by Room covers the upkeep of the appliances, tools, furnishings, and surfaces found in each room, from the entryway to the kitchen, from the attic to the laundry room.

Throughout the House instructs the reader on the proper ways to routinely clean and periodically maintain everything in the home, including dusting, sweeping, vacuuming, polishing, scrubbing, waxing and much more.

Comfort and Safety focuses on techniques to ensure your home is running properly and safely, such as recognizing when to clean vents, fixing a leaky faucet, and eradicating pests.

A-to-Z Materials Guide provides an invaluable resource that explains the unusual materials that many favorite objects are made of–from abalone to zinc–
and how to care for them so they last.

Encyclopedic yet friendly, Martha Stewart’s Homekeeping Handbook is a seminal work–a must-have for everyone who wants a well-cared-for home that will endure for generations.

Housekeeping Hits - Music to clean house by!

1. I’m A Woman - Jerry Leiber
2. Respect - Otis Redding
3. I’m Every Woman - Ashford
4. I Will Survive - Dino Fekaris
5. Morning Train (Nine To Five) - Florrie Palmer
6. Proud Mary - John Fogerty
7. On The Radio - Donna Summer
8. (You Make Me Feel Like) A Natural Woman - Carole King
9. Walking On Sunshine - Kimberley Rew
10. You Can’t Hurry Love - Edward Holland

Dyson DC17 Animal - The most powerful upright for pet hair. Outcleans all other vacuums, room after room. Level 3 Root Cyclone technology. Unique cleaner head and motorized brushbar for the bets pick-up across all floor types.

You know how sometimes, you vacuum your carpet and it looks clean from one angle but when you look at the carpet from the other side of the room you can still see stuff that the vacuum cleaner left behind? That was an increasing problem with my old vacuum cleaners. I vacuum from one direction, then end up having to make a second pass from the opposite direction to make sure I got everything.

Now I know we just got it, but I CAN tell you that with the Dyson, even if you vacuumed only once and in only one direction it’s clean from ALL angles. THAT’S impressive. We just ran a Rainbow vacuum twice over our carpets a week ago and the Dyson STILL picked up 4 canisters’ worth of dust and hair. It’s kind of funny because after running the Dyson through our beige carpet, it’s so much more obvious which spots need professional cleaning . And it wasn’t kidding about the “Never loses suction” part, because the last room I vacuumed was just as clean as the first room I vacuumed.

Sure it’s expensive, but my husband and I have already gone through 2 of those $100-range vacuum cleaners. At this rate we were going to end up spending our way to the cost of a Dyson.

Home Comforts: The Art and Science of Keeping House - Virtually everyone enjoys a crisply ironed dress shirt, clean sheets on a well-made bed, and a savory home-cooked meal. Yet housekeeping today stands as a somewhat neglected, if not maligned, job. But as author Cheryl Mendelson points out in Home Comforts, keeping house well can be a rewarding position–it allows you to provide for the physical and emotional comfort of loved ones. It’s also not an easy job–there’s much to be learned about properly managing a home, and Mendelson has set out to provide a guide to doing just that.

Mendelson, a homemaker, lawyer, and mother, learned about housekeeping from an early age from her grandmothers, one Appalachian, the other Italian. The two grandmothers taught her that although different ways of keeping house can be appropriate, there are generally smarter, faster, and more creative ways of housekeeping that make it less of a chore and more of an art. In a practical, authoritative tone, Mendelson discusses the ins and outs of homemaking, such as washing dishes, recommended cleaning methods for various surfaces, housekeeping for those with pets or allergies, and emergency preparedness and safety procedures.

Mendelson’s well-researched book includes meticulous sections on food (for example, which foods belong in the fridge versus the pantry, food storage times, picking the freshest fruits and vegetables, and keeping your kitchen and food sanitary) as well as laundry (caring for various fabrics, how to read–and read between the lines of–clothing care labels, and removing stains). Mendelson covers a lot of ground, and as she herself points out, readers shouldn’t feel required to do everything mentioned in the book–simply pick the activities that seem appropriate for your particular home. This is a comprehensive reference book that should serve homemakers well and induce a greater appreciation for the effort and specialized knowledge that go into keeping house.

Stepford wife? Please! I am an professional with a college degree, happily married with two children and work out of my own home.

This book is for ANYONE who feels like the clutter in their house has taken them over. My house was always messy and I had basically given up, thinking that there were clean people and messy people, and I was doomed to be one of the latter.

I picked this book up on a whim at a local book store and was instantly intrigued. Imagine, a organizing book that makes no mention of buying nifty new containers or redoing your home to contain your crap! Flylady operates on the principal that if something in your home is causing you stress or if you are looking at it with disinterest or hate, it’s time to LET IT GO! Toss it! Goodbye!

This was a real novelty to a pack rat like me, and it has truly changed how I look at my home and the items within. While I am far from completely organized yet, it has made a HUGE difference and my home is far more serene now then it ever has been. I am slowly getting rid of everything that is not deserving a place in my life and I am all the better for it. This is the ONE organizing book out there that will really make a difference! Thank you Flylady!

Would you believe my teenage son came to me the other day with a bottle of toilet cleaner, asking if he could use it to clean his bathroom mirror?? Unbelieveable, right?

Not too mention you don’t use toilet cleaner on a mirror (the fact that a teenage boy WANTED to clean his mirror is shocking enough!)

Here’s some simple glass cleaning tips - I shared them with him, too

Supplies Needed for Washing Windows:
Clean cloths
Newspaper
Bucket
Whiskbroom or brush
Stepladder or step stool

Washing Windows:

Steps to cleaning windows:

Get window shades, blinds, and curtains out of the way.

Dust or brush window frames and sills.

Wipe the glass with a damp cloth first to get rid of the worst dirt.

Wet a sponge or soft cloth with the vinegar and water or ammonia and water solution.

Starting with the top window panes, wash each pane in an up and down motion. Be sure to get into the corners.

Rub the glass with a dry, clean cloth.

Wash window frames and sills with a damp cloth. Dry them. After the sills are dry, you may want to wax them.

Hints for Cleaning Mirrors & Picture Glass:

Cleaning Mirrors:

Clean mirrors in the same way you would clean windows.

Do not Use too much of the cleaning mixture. String cleaning solutions can damage the mirror.

Cleaning Picture Glass:

To keep water from getting inside the frame of pictures and framed mirrors, hold a piece of heavy paper or cardboard against the frame on the inside edge.
Preparing to Wash Windows:

Get ready to do the job:

Place papers under the window.

Mix 1/2 cup vinegar and 1/3 cup ammonia in one gallon of water.

Set the bucket of water on the paper, near the glass you will clean.

Names of Cleaning Products:

Brand name products - Windex, Sparkle, Glass Plus

Household prodcuts - Vinegar, Ammonia

For the LIFE of me - I do not know why makers of glassware, plates - and even eye glasses, must put that sticky label on the surface??!!?? Anyone know why? Is there some secret that I’m missing here? Because those labels are ugly, hard to remove and leave residue every single time.

The makers of sunglasses have smartened up and started putting those plastic, peel off labels that come of easy and don’t leave a mark - - when are glassware people going to get a clue? That plastic easy peel off stuff must be expensive, hey?

Stickers, labels and tapes with pressure-sensitive adhesive (those that are peeled from a backing or roll, then pressed in place) can often times be peeled off. The remaining adhesive can then be rubbed off with your fingers similar to the way you “thumb-roll” rubber cement into small balls. If the adhesive is old or has been exposed to high temperatures and/or humidity, the “thumb- roll” method does not always work. Try removing as much of the label or tape as possible with your fingernail or the dull edge of a knife.

The next procedure will depend on the surface of the household item. It is important to pretest some of the materials. Whatever method you use, first test the cleaning removal material in an inconspicuous part of the surface the label is stuck on the be sure it will not damage that surface. Sometimes the adhesive can be removed with a solution of warm water, liquid dish washing detergent, and vinegar or ammonia.

Fold a paper towel or cloth to make a thick pad, as large as the label. Dampen pad with household ammonia; lay pad over label. (Use masking tape to hold pad onto a vertical surface.) Wait 1/2 to 2 hours. Re-dampen the pad if it tends to dry out. Label will slide off. (NEVER USE AMMONIA ON PLASTIC OR ALUMINUM.)

Another method is to use a hand cleaner like DL, Fast Orange, GoJo, or Goop, usually in an auto dept. Spread them on, and anything that doesn’t come off can be easily scraped with a flat wood or hard plastic scraper.

A commercial product - Goof Off also does the trick, although it is flammable, dangerous, dissolves latex paint and plastics etc.

All this for the damned label.

I vote for the plastic easy to peel off stuff!

I inherited three really super pots and skillets from my grandmother. They are cast iron and I just love to use them for grilling, sauteing and cooking. The problem I had with them at first was not knowing how to properly care for, and clean them. They always rusted - which made for unappetizing cooking experiences.

I looked up information on how to care for cast iron and was surprised to find that there is an actual method of ’seasoning’ it to keep them in good shape.

Cast iron is heavy, hard, somewhat brittle, and may break if dropped. Cast iron will rust if it is not cared for and ’seasoned’. You should store your cast iron in dry conditions to avoid rust - - toss a paper town in them to absorb moisture if you live in a humid environment.

If the cast iron has not been pre-treated, season before using for the first time by doing the following:

• Brush unsalted fat on surfaces.
• Heat until grids begin to smoke. When finished, wipe out extra fat, wash in soap, and dry thoroughly.
• If not properly seasoned, cast iron pans will drip dark liquid into food.
• Cast iron is ready to use.
• After baking brush surfaces with a soft plastic brush or wipe gently with a paper towel while still warm to remove crumbs.
• Do not wash the grids or put any water on them. The seasoned surfaces darken and prevent sticking. However, if grids without a non-stick finish begin to stick, or are stained by foods being spilled on them, wash grids with warm suds, rinse, wipe dry, and re-season with unsalted fat.

Cast Iron Utensils: Store “seasoned” in a dry place. Do not put lids on pans when storing as this may increase moisture buildup. After use, wipe with paper towels, wash quickly without soaking, in hot suds, rinse; dry thoroughly at once, and wipe with a thin coating of fat or oil.

Cooked-on, Burned-on Food or Grease: Stubborn cooked-on food is best removed by soaking in hot water. Use a plastic scouring pad if necessary. Soak in a solution of 3 tablespoons of washing soda or baking soda per 1 quart of water to remove burned on food or grease. Do not scour off the seasoned finish built up on cast iron over long use. This necessitates re-seasoning of the pan.

Rust may be scoured with fine steel wool or scouring powder but re-seasoning of the utensil is necessary.

Happy cast iron cooking!

Who hasn’t had to run around after little (or even BIG) kids to clean crayon markings off the walls, tables, countertops, woodwork? Hmm.. maybe it’s only MY house??

Crayons are resistant to water and any water soluble cleaner. In fact, water tends to spread crayon stains making the condition even worse.

Other means, such as “mechanical” or “solvency” must be used to remove the crayon. Immediate heat, or “wet” solvency treatment may spread and set these stains. For the best chances of removal, please follow these steps:

• Mechanical (where applicable) Carefully scrape up (with the edge of a butter knife) or lift off as much solid “crayon” matter as possible. Be careful not to spread the stain with this physical removal.
• Next, place a tray full of ice cubes into a zipper type freezer bag and rest it over an affected area for several minutes. As the cold makes the crayon more brittle, use the butter knife once again to scrape off any further residue. If the area is larger than ice bag, then use the same procedure systematically until entire area is treated.
• Steps #1 & #2 are the “scraping process”. (to be used again later on)
  After this “cold” method has removed as much of the crayon as possible, you should then dry these “warm-hot” methods.
• First, use your hair dryer (on “HI” setting) to soften the crayon. Once again, carefully scrape up (with the edge of a butter knife or piece of cardboard) as much solid “crayon” matter as possible OR place a very absorbent material, such as a “thick” paper towel or napkin over affect area. Take a ‘warm-hot’ iron and apply over this covering. Hopefully the crayon will either soften so you can repeat step 1 or liquefy the crayon so it will be absorbed up into material.
• Pre-Soak stain in isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Allow to stand about 30 minutes. Agitate with a scrub brush. Rinse thoroughly with water. Once satisfied with results, allow surface to completely dry.

Note: Always test an inconspicuous area for colorfastness, etc. before treating the exposed area. Also note that certain stains are permanent.

Tile grout poses its own difficulties. The porous nature of grout means cleaning solutions pass through without a thought of taking the stain with them. When that dreaded spill happens, clean immediately. The longer a spill sets the better chance of it staining. Mix a 50/50 solution of hydrogen peroxide to water in a spray bottle. Spray the stain and allow to set 30 minutes. Retreat if needed. Do not use peroxide on colored grout. It’s bleach and will take the color out of the grout.

Club soda will also help remove the stain if poured on immediately. Shaving cream does a good job. Spray on and allow to set 30 minutes. Tile stores carry a chalk like stick that is safe for any color grout. Drag it across the stain and remove after an hour or so. Reapply if necessary.

Keep a good sealant on the tiles and especially the grout. You’ll find good sealants at tile stores.